Can I do fingerboard session?

He asks me and look at his fingers:

“I don’t think I’m strong enough to do it”

This is a short convo I had a week ago

If this is you let me ask you one question:

What’s the easiest way to start doing something?

We both know the answer: just start.

Here’s how:

Step 1: Prepare

What you need: warm fingers, 15 minutes, and a clean board (plus a little chalk if your gym allows).

There are three main hand positions to know:

• Crimp

  

  Crimp (thumb on the index finger or really close)

• Half-crimp

• Open hand

(Yes I asked AI to generate those img for me but they are quite cool! -don’t you think?)

Step 2: Diagnose

Find what you want to work on:

1. Test various holds & hand positions and note which feel strong or weak.

2. Pick a starting point—e.g., a 35mm edge with 4 fingers - Open Hand.

3. Do a 10-second dead hang with your feet lightly on the ground.

Wait, what’s a dead hang?

• A dead hang means hanging with relaxed shoulders.

• In contrast, an active hang engages your shoulder blades.

After your first rep, ask yourself:

How do my fingers feel? The goal is to get your body used to the position safely.

Step 3: Repeat

Find a hold or position that feels challenging but manageable. Then, try this simple routine:

• 4 fingers: 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off × 4 reps

• 3 fingers: 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off × 2 reps

• 2 fingers (index, middle) 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off x 2 reps

• 2 fingers (middle, ring) 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off x 2 reps

Next Steps

This is just the start. Building finger strength is about consistency, strategy, and doing it safely. If you want a full, personalized plan to take your climbing to the next level, I’d love to help.

👉 [Click here to join my online coaching program] and let’s get you climbing stronger and with confidence!

Your fingers are stronger than you think. All you need is a plan—and I’m here to guide you every step of the way. 💪